#Lennox furnace parts drain trap install

What I'm mainly curious about though, is what about that blower speed setting? Should I change it back to low as recommended? I don't know if the PO added duct work for the 2nd floor himself or if that was there when the furnace was sized. I checked the LP pressure setting with a manometer last time I replaced the gas valve. The air coming out of the vents has always been just lukewarm. adding insulation is on this year's todo list. Which I'm fine with if this is just an occasional thing. Tonight it's very cold out (-5F) and the furnace is having trouble keeping up. I recently replaced the motor and wired it the same way as the old one. Finally, note that furnace condensate is acidic, and some states/provinces/countries may require the condensate to be neutralized prior to draining.The previous owner had the furnace blower set on the med-high setting, but this could have been because the bearing was going out.That includes running it under the natural fresh air inlet if there is one. Avoid running the drain in an area where it could freeze.Avoid double trapping and vent the drain after the trap to prevent airlocks Slope the drain line itself, obviously.

#Lennox furnace parts drain trap install

That means slope the venting down towards the furnace (typically a Р’СРІР‚в„ўРІР‚в„ў slope per foot of length, minimum), and also, slope the furnace itself! Look in your install manual, most manufacturers will call for the furnace to be installed with a slightР’В forward pitch to allow condensate to drain from the heat exchanger.

Make sure every component that produces condensate is sloped towards the drain.

To ensure proper drainage, here are the proper practices: Avoid hard-piping the whole drain, as it will be impossible to remove and clean out the trap. I highly recommend using clamped flexible hoses for the drain, as close as possible to the trap. The need for regular cleaning also means that drains should be installed as much as possible in a way that allows for the trap to be easily removed. Hotter water helps for stubborn blockages.

If thereРІР‚в„ўs any poor flow, fill it up and blow through it a few times to get the dirt out. Rinse it out, make sure water flows through the trap properly from all its ports. The trap needs to be cleaned out regularly, and that should be done every maintenance. The only downside to the trap is potential for blockage. Keep that in mind, because if you ever add an extra drain (off a tee on the venting, for example), you will need to TRAP it, always. Additionally, the inducer motor would suck air through the drain if it werenРІР‚в„ўt trapped, which could affect combustion, and would prevent proper drainage. Since the drain taps into the exhaust system, leaving it open to the air would allow for a potential exhaust/flue gas leak in the living space, which is a big no-no. The condensate trap is absolutely mandatory for a high-efficiency gas furnace. The secondary heat exchanger outlet is sealed inside a plastic part called the collector box, which is designed to collect the condensate and drain it out.Р”Р„ll condensate drains go into a trap. Most furnaces will have at least 2 internal drains, typically one for the heat exchanger and one for the vent, usually at the inducer outlet or on the inducer housing. In order for the furnace to work properly, that condensation needs to be drained out or else it would accumulate inside the heat exchanger, inducer and venting, impeding proper gas/combustion product flow. This means that in perfect combustion, for every molecule of CO2Р’В you produce, there are also 2 water molecules produced. Now as technicians you donРІР‚в„ўt need to know this part but if youРІР‚в„ўre a bit into chemistry, hereРІР‚в„ўs the basic chemical equation: CH4Р’В + 2 O2Р’В + heat = CO2Р’В + 2 H2O This water comes from two sources: moisture which was already present in the combustion air, and the combustion process itself, as the hydrogen atoms from the natural gas molecules (methane, CH4) combine with oxygen to form water. This not only completely changes the way the furnace has to be vented (I will talk about venting specifically in a later tip) but also, and itРІР‚в„ўs what weРІР‚в„ўll focus on, a lot of condensateР’В is generated. Because of this, they generate flue gases much colder than those of a mid-efficiency or natural draft unit. High efficiency (or 90%, or condensing) furnaces use a set of two heat exchangers in order to retrieve more heat from the combustion products than their mid-efficiency counterparts. Are you a homeowner or own a commercial property? Check out to find a Bryant dealer near you!